Plant Problem Diagnostic
Rabbit Damage in the Garden: Identify It and Fence It Out
The short answer
Rabbit feeding leaves clean, angled cuts, as if the stem were sliced at 45 degrees with a knife, and damage sits low to the ground. Ragged, torn stems higher up point to deer instead. In winter, rabbits also gnaw bark from young trees and shrubs, which can girdle and kill them.
Fencing is the most effective control. Extension guidance says a fence of chicken wire with mesh 1 inch or smaller, about 2 feet tall, is adequate for cottontail rabbits. To stop rabbits from pushing underneath, pin the bottom edge tightly to the ground with landscape staples or bury it 1 to 2 inches. Repellents are short-lived and unreliable by comparison.
Signs it is rabbits and not something else
- Clean, slanted 45-degree cuts on stems, usually within reach of a rabbit sitting on the ground (deer leave ragged, torn ends).
- Pea-sized round droppings scattered near feeding areas.
- Bark gnawed from the base of young trees and canes in winter, with paired incisor marks.
- Damage that appears overnight on beans, lettuce, peas, tulips, and other tender plants.
Build the fence
- 1Choose the mesh — Use chicken wire with 1-inch or smaller mesh, or quarter-inch hardware cloth. Larger openings let young rabbits squeeze through.
- 2Set the height — About 2 feet of fence above ground is adequate for cottontails; taller helps where jackrabbits occur or snow raises the effective ground level.
- 3Seal the bottom — Pin the bottom edge tight to the soil with U-shaped landscape pins or bury it 1 to 2 inches so rabbits cannot crawl under.
- 4Protect trees individually — Wrap young trunks with quarter-inch hardware cloth cylinders 18 to 24 inches tall, buried at least 3 inches, to prevent winter girdling.
Habitat changes that help
Rabbits stay close to cover. Removing brush piles, tall weedy patches, and debris near the garden makes the area less attractive and exposes rabbits to predators, reducing pressure on your plants.
Repellents and their limits
Taste and odor repellents can reduce browsing temporarily but wash off in rain, do not protect new growth, and give inconsistent results. Extension sources consistently rank fencing first and treat repellents as a stopgap. Follow label directions on any product and never apply repellents to food crops unless the label allows it.
When damage continues
If exclusion fails or damage is severe, contact your county Extension office or a licensed wildlife control operator. Trapping and other removal methods are regulated in many states; check local wildlife regulations before attempting them.
⚠ Do not use poison baits for rabbits. They are not a legal or recommended control for cottontails and put pets, children, and wildlife at risk.
Sources
Reviewed 2026-07-18. We cite university Extension, government, and established horticultural sources — and never invent pesticide rates or dangerous treatments.
- Iowa State University Extension - How to Protect Gardens from Rabbits — Chicken wire with mesh 1 inch or smaller (or quarter-inch hardware cloth) about 2 feet tall is adequate; bury or pin the bottom so rabbits cannot crawl under.
- Illinois Extension - Dealing with Rabbit Damage Outdoors — Quarter-inch hardware cloth cylinders 18 to 24 inches tall, buried at least 3 inches, protect trunks of young trees from rabbit girdling.
- K-State Research and Extension (Johnson County) - Rabbit Damage Prevention — Fencing is the most reliable protection; rabbit-specific fencing uses tighter wire spacing near the bottom to exclude young rabbits.