Seasonal Action Guide

What to Do in the Garden in May (UK)

The short answer

May's headline jobs are hardening off and planting out. Acclimatise greenhouse-raised plants to outdoor conditions over 10 to 14 days, then plant out tomatoes, courgettes and pumpkins once all risk of frost has passed and night temperatures have stopped dipping below around 7ยฐC.

Direct sow French beans, runner beans, squash, cucumbers and pumpkins into prepared beds, sow sweetcorn in blocks at 45cm spacing, and towards the end of the month give perennials such as sedums, asters and phlox the Chelsea chop to keep them compact and extend flowering.

Sow and plant

  • Harden off young plants for 10โ€“14 days before planting out, waiting until night temperatures no longer dip below around 7ยฐC.
  • Plant out tomatoes, courgettes and pumpkins raised under cover once all risk of frost has passed.
  • Direct sow French beans, runner beans, squash, cucumbers and pumpkin seeds into prepared beds outside.
  • Sow sweetcorn outside in blocks at 45cm spacing, two seeds per hole, to aid wind pollination.

Prune and tidy

  • Give the Chelsea chop (usually at the end of May, around the RHS Chelsea Flower Show) to perennials such as sedums, asters, echinaceas, rudbeckias, heleniums and phlox โ€” cut flower stems back by up to half for compact growth and later flowers.
  • Stay on top of weeding while weeds are small and soft.

Watering and general care

  • Keep freshly sown seed and young vegetable plants consistently moist.
  • Sink a 15cm pot into the ground beside tomatoes and water into it so water reaches the roots directly; thirsty crops such as courgettes and tomatoes suit drip irrigation.

Regional adjustment

The RHS keys May planting-out to your local last frost, not a fixed date: in most parts of the country you can harden off and plant out this month, but last frosts fall later in colder northern gardens and earlier in the milder south and west, so let night temperatures โ€” not the calendar โ€” decide.

Sources

Reviewed 2026-07-18. We cite university Extension, government, and established horticultural sources โ€” and never invent pesticide rates or dangerous treatments.

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